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My Tips&Tricks
Headlight adjustment and
Carburettor synchronisation
Headlight adjustment:
1.
Put yourself on the bike and position it upright (riding position) in
front of a wall. Have another person measure the distance from the center
of the headlamp to the floor/road.
2.
Measure off 7,6m (25') from the front of the lamp and draw a horizontal
line (same height as the center of the lamp ) on the wall.
3.
Turn your lights on and put theme on high beam. While your weight still on
the bike, adjust the light vertical so the light is even above and below
the horizontal line you drew on the wall. Then adjust the light horizontal
so you have an equal amount of light to the left and right of the center
point.
This puts your high and low beam "almost perfect".
Carb sync.:
You need phillips screwdriver, 4 vacuum gauges, or a
Cartune II, and
an "L" bend tool with either an 8mm socket or
a flathead screwdriver on the end. I used the following:
"L" bend tool with an 8mm socket
Carbtune II
Cylinders are numbered as follows:
left side: 1 rear, 2 front
right side: 3 rear, 4 front
The vacuum ports are the philips screws visible in the upper corners of
each carb. Remove the philips screws and
washer from each carb (1, 2 and 3) and screw in the brass connector tubes.
Just hand tighten the connector tubes.
Plug the vacuum gauges into the vacuum ports on these three. Carb 4 has a
vacuum hose. Start the bike and let it
idle for a few minutes to build up pressure. Take a pair of sissor clamps
and clamp off the hose BEFORE detaching
it from the plug. Then slip on gauge #4 hose. DO NOT TURN OFF THE BIKE!.
Adjust the calibration screws "on the gauges" until each is steady or
barely moving.
Cylinder #1 is the base cylinder. You will adjust the other 3 so their
vacuum matches whatever is on #1. Sync the
carbs in this order, 2 to 1, 3 to 1 and 4 to 1. Repeat as necessary, as
the next carb may throw off the previous..
Up under the carbs you will see 1 sync screw on the back row and 2 screws
on the front row. You can see which
screw adjusts which carb by turning the screw while the engine is running
and watch which vacuum gauge changes its
reading. Use your "L" bend screwdriver to adjust the screws until all the
vacuum gauges read the same.
Once the above is accomplished, you are done! Turn the bike off,
disconnect the gauges, put the Phillips screws
back in and re-attach the vacuum hose. No need to do anything more as
below...
******* To get the carbs super-accurate *******
Next, put the bike on a stand so it's vertical, rest the carb sync gauges
on the seat (with all their hoses
attached to the cylinder ports), put the bike in neutral, fire it up and
let it warm up fully. Adjust the dampers
on the vacuum gauges so the needles stop jumping around and are just
barely wiggling. Just looking at the gauges
you'll see how "close" your carbs are. To get the carbs
super-accurate well beyond the specification, repeat the procedure
described above at an idle of 2500-3000rpm.
*******************************************
(Thanks to
MrsWilli for writing it down)
Check out my Modification page for more tips!
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