Climbing

My Climbing Philosophy

I enjoy climbing, therefore I do climb.

I think the fascination of climbing comes from several sources. Climbing requires concentration and is a good way of relaxing and forgetting other things. Climbing is challenging in great many ways: mentally, physically and technically. The feeling that you are dealing with something intrinsically scary and potentially dangerous but that through proper skills risks can be managed is very pleasant. I should also confess that climbing gadgets are cool and sometimes simply arranging my toys and dreaming about future climbs give me boyish pleasure... Last but not least, climbing brings me to company of nice people, and often takes place in nice surroundings.

I like all kinds of climbing. Currently I mostly climb short sport routes. However, nothing can beat multi-pitch trad routes.
 

History

When I was a small kid I did lots of climbing in trees and on small rocks, like most kids I suppose. "Real" rock climbing was one of my dreams, but beyond realistic options (at least so I thought). But the dream lived, and at mature age I realised that I can start climbing without migrating to Nepal. It was the time for action, and I took a climbing course. 

That was in winter time, so the course was on an indoor wall. But I immediately realised that climbing is my sport, and in the spring I attended a course outdoors. During the summer 1998 I did lots of climbing near Vienna, Austria.

In summer 1999 I was again in Austria but did mostly bouldering. The highlight of 1999 was my first multi-pitch (>2) climb, which was "Himmelsleiter" (400m, UIAA 6+) with Gebhard Banko in Höllental in eastern Austria. I also discovered a decent crag (in strictly Finnish standards) close to my summer cottage in Sammatti, Härkonnenahe. The maximum height of the wall is about 12m with some overhanging parts. Although facing south it is somewhat gloomy place because of the surrounding mature forest.

In winter 2000 I got my ice tools and did some modest stuff, mostly ice bouldering in Finland and two exciting winter ascents to Schneeberg in Austria. Summer 2000 was busy climbing summer in Austria, including a short trip to Slovenia.

Summer 2001 featured some nice climbing in Austria as well as a great trip to Portugal.
 

Nice quote!

Posted by Clover on September 25, 2000 at 15:10:26 to rec.climbing.useful:

"In the best possible world, according to my climbing partner, climbing would consist of all trad all the time. Cliffs broken only by hand-sized cracks would rise from sea level to the skies, and these cliffs would be free of all sport climbers. Work would not interfere with climbing, nor would other obligations, like paying bills or calling one's mother or girlfriend. He would be out there with his rack and an appropriate belay slave (a deaf-mute, perhaps, who would tug commands on the rope and never offer unwanted beta) and a lifetime supply of Gatorade and Luna Bars. The sun would always shine, the bugs would never bite, rattlesnakes and poison ivy would be exterminated by friendly young women in sports bras and Lycra shorts, and a cool breeze would waft over him every time he reached a crux move.
..."

September 2001 marked a major change in my climbing opportunities as I moved to Bergen, Norway. Although the immediate surroundings of the city do not feature huge walls, opportunities for 1-3 rope length climbs as well as scrambles on longer but somewhat vegetated slopes (some of which can be viewed from my office) are rather satisfactory. Sadly though, I am finding myself busier and busier all the time. Virtual climbing and great dreams dominate my climbing life... As some highlights I could perhaps mention trad climbs on Liafjell area in Sotra, with great view towards the North Sea in west (all routes) and Folgefonna glacier in the east from (top of some routes). A memorable climb was ice scramble up Bondhusbreen, a glacier fall/arm that is part of Folgefonna glacier, with Helge Drange.

The definite low point of my climbing history is the accident I had in Austria in August 2007.

The accident did not affect my climbing that much (stiffness of my ankle is a handicap but not a major one), and I climb at the same level as before the accident.

Even better quotes?

Peter Wessel Zapffe (1899-1990) about alpinism:

"A sport that relates to other sports as champagne to bock, ..."

"But the purpose, people ask, meaning, the goal? There's no purpose, there's no goal. Alpinism is meaningless as is the life itself - therefore its magic can never die."